Street Life

Dear Grace,

Since this adventure took us through busy markets and off the beaten path, it was a perfect day for Daddy to come along with us. We found a couple treasures while shimming through the bustling markets: cool antique map of the tube lines, iron crown for a bookshelf, and a British box thing (sorry, best way I can describe it). We tried some gross traditional British candy and met some very nice local Britts. One of whom reminded me of Uncle Matthew's best friend, Nick Kuc. (The friend who recommended the lovely spots while we were in Oxford). He gave you his bracelet which had fit into our conversation. It represented the British soldiers. We rushed home after talking to these fellows, longer than planned, to welcome Mr. and Mrs. Elpers to the UK! Talk about good times with GREAT people. We had so much to talk about and celebrate while they were here! Mommy and Daddy are SO happy they made the trip to visit us on their way home from Monaco, the French Riviera and Barcelona. Enjoy!

Cheers, Mummy

Walk #14. Street Life: London's Coolest Markets

"The adventure- The bustle of Spitalfields and Brick Lane is rich with the cultural history of London. Jewish bagel bakeries, Indian curry houses, artists and artisan shops and hip markets make it one of the most exciting parts of London. Old Spitalfields has been turned into a covered market for records, clothes, music and food. Brick lane has one of london's best street markets and on Sundays Columbia Road, to the north, is London's great flower market. The area is home to London's artists, with Tracey Emin and Gilbert and George living here, the White chapel Art Gallery at the end of Brick Lane and the art galleries of Hoxton nearby.

It has always been a place for immigrants new to London, just outside the walls of the old city. Many of the streets are characterized by the elegant Georgian houses built by the French Huguenots, Protestants who came to live here when they were forced out of Catholic France. Many of them were silk weavers. They built large, simple, shuttered houses with vast attic spaces for working the silk looms. As they became wealthy, they moved away, making way for the next generation of immigrants to Spitalfields. The Huguenots were followed by Irish weavers, and, in turn, by Ashkenazi Jews, escaping from Russian persecution in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Most recently, people from Bangladesh settled here in the mid-twentieth century. Spitalfields is now a thriving, regenerated part of London. "

We started our adventure on Brick Lane. "This street has the highest density of Indian restaurants in England but was once more famous for its silk weavers and shops. As you walk up Brick Lane, look out for the mosque on the corner of Fournier Street. This little building captures the history of these streets. It began life in 1742 as La Neuve Eglise, ad Huguenot chapel. By 1809 it was known as the Jews' Chapel, built to promote Christianity to Jews. By 1898 it had become the Spitalfields Great Synagogue. Finally, in 1976 it became a mosque, the London Jamme Masjid."

"Turn left and admire the best preserved Huguenot houses in London, with their beautiful painted wooden shutters in reds, purples and greys, several still forlorn and neglected with peeling paint and faded colors, others rescued and restored. Note the shutters are, in French style, on the outside of the houses."

"No. 19 houses the Museum of Immigration and Diversity, with a hidden synagogue dating from 1869. You can stay at No. 13 through the Landmark Trust."

"Turn right toward Spitalfields Market and the impressive spired Hawksmoor Christ Church. Built by Queen Anne for the 'godless thousands of the East End between 1714 and 1729, the church is worth stopping in for a few moments if only to admire its grandeur. Virtually derelict in 1960, it has recently been beautifully restored."

The people working inside the church were beyond warm and welcoming. They handed up this letter from the Reverend and offered us a cup of coffee. 

"Leaving the church, walk down the side of the market on Brushfield Street. Pass a row of tempting cafes, pasing at the last, A. Gold, to buy sweets from a jar (sugar mice, fudge, licorice, sherbert fountains) or have a coffee in the cramped, charming shop surrounded by delicious jams, elderflower wines, fresh bread, and seven- day marmalade. The cafe is owned by the writer Jeanette Winterson."

In the last two years, this cafe has split into two separate businesses, but they still sold the traditional British treats. We met the kindest man at A. Gold who explained the history of the shop and was very excited and surprised that his store was in my travel book. He wrote down the information is said he is going to buy the book for his family and friends. Ahhhh....the stories we have to tell you, Grace, from our little blue book. 

Sugar mice- It's exactly what you would expect. They taste like sugar and come on a rope! :)

Sherbet fountains- This was a little trickier. When you open it up there is one thin strip of black licorice inside what looks like the sugar powder of Fun Dip. Either we didn't understand what to do (no directions) or the fountain concept is nonexistent. Paul Hawkins- can you help us out on this one?

"Cross to the other side of the Brushfield Street and explore the market as much as you like (stalls open Monday-Friday and Sundays)." Why didn't the book just say everyday except Saturday? :) 

"Turn left down Folgate Street and walk to No. 18, Dennis Severs' extraordinary restoration of a Huguenot weaver's house, authentic to the last detail. Note the gas lamp burning outside, peer through the windows for a taste of the atmosphere inside."

"Turn right down Blossom Street to Fleur de Lis Street." But not before stopping in this random pub for a proper pint. 

Hmmm...does anyone else find it strange to be in a room with leather couches, a chandelier, a doll house, a skeleton on the wall, and a rocking horse?

Grace, what do you think of the decor? 

"The famous Truman Brewery chimney dominates this part of the street. Back in 1683, Joseph Truman established the great Black Eagle Brewery here on Brick Lane, drawing water from deep wells beneath it."

"Explore the unusual, arty and trendy smattering of shops, with vintage clothing, t-shirts, interiors, children's clothes and toys. There is a tat market here on Sundays, with clothes and junk for sale." By the time we were in this part of town, the markets and shops were starting to close. :( We were told by local Brits that it is worth coming back to the famous Petticoat Lane street market which sells end of season fashions everyday but Saturday.

In the middle of this historic part of London was an American bar, complete with a Bears and Colts flag and Coors Light. (Blossoms...we looked up Lite vs Light)

I thought the addresses on these doors were interesting. Eleven and Eleven and a half. Why not 11 and 11 1/2?

As we were heading back toward the tube, we stumbled across this pub. Spitalfields lies just outside the old City walls. It is where the dead were buried and dead dogs were thrown (Houndsditch). All of Jack the Ripper's victims lived in Spitalfields. Two were murdered here.